9/3-8/24 Helsinki was not so exciting, actually.Super super clean, organized, and well-designed at every level. And yet….
We never found a spark.
Its streets are clean and there are lovely parks every block or two. Public transportation is cheap and runs absolutely on time, with a planning app that includes walking maps and the name of every bus or tram stop along one’s route. At night, and even during the day, the city is quiet. Food is not too expensive and of excellent quality. Recycling everything, even plastic is simple and convenient, and the downtown library is a wondrous gem. And so many people speak excellent English it is hard to even practice the most basic Finnish hello or thank you.From Doug: Returning to Helsinki, the lives of Sami people seemed largely ignored. Big city, wealthy people- others, not obvious downtown. Everything was in order. Dogs are small but worshiped here, traveling on bus, planes behaving as well as their owners.
All the guides point to Finnish design centers and shops: beautiful clothes and furniture and accessories, all in abundance. Places and objects show thoughtful and clever design, function well with minimal extraneous elements.
We looked harder and harder for street art or funky storefronts or cafes, galleries, events, even rougher neighborhoods. We people watched: lots of tall Nordic folk with curly-haired well-behaved children; the occasional Middle Eastern young man or mother with small children, a few Somali people.
According to a number of sources, Finland is the most racist country in the EU. And more so since its 2023 elections.
We never found a museum or a gallery or even a tavern that didn’t feel pretty staid.
We DID find some really lovely city parks, including this one, which had a 2500-3000 year old burial mound with a view.
from Doug: Consistent with our cheap-ass travel practices, we walked by restaurants to markets searching for food to cook in our well-appointed apartment. One exception: a lunch of salmon soup- with dill, small potato bits, leeks dill and a little cream. Delicious, also, the beer is good.
from Doug: Observing some common themes in politics with those playing out in US- Finland’s current national leader running for election promises to deny medical service to immigrants. Hope nobody ever gets another contagious illness! Also, a break in the quiet as we witnessed a crowd of weekend marchers calling for peace and ceasefire in Gaza.
I started wondering: does a largely homogeneous, economically well-off society that can provide shelter and food and clothing and education to its people, an economy that does “well” in a country that is not in a war, does this foster flatline culture? Would people who have so much, and are reputedly among the happiest in the world, be satisfied, so satisfied, that the edge of art isn’t worth the effort?
Once I saw this add, I looked everywhere for the product. Alas, never found it…..
